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balance (2): spooky

Sunday, October 31, 2004


waiting all day for the evening, as halloween on khao san road ends up being a big production. otto has practiced for months playing with his band for the occasion. i dress up as a vampiress, making do with the clothes i have with me and a pair of fake teeth i bought in NY. otto shows up around 8p with a bouquet of flowers. i shrug them aside, as i am being very firm about our just being friends (and with separate places this has worked so far). we meet up with his thai friends, all dressed up for the occasion, and head to khao san.


there are more thai people than there are farangs, dressed as vampires, witches, generally dead people, and one in particular a thai ghost who lives in a banana tree (very creative). the street is packed, it’s hard to move. we manouever towards a space on the street, where more of otto’s friends (whom i am happy to see after a long absence) are waiting. they play music and the crowd gathers around. free buckets of sangsom and cola magically appear. everyone is dancing. we are filmed for the evening news. i scare children with my teeth and several people want to take my picture. a kiwi girl i had met last year on ko chang appears for a happy reunion. we gossip and dance...... suddenly it’s 2am and the police (who have been unusually lenient about closing times tonight), walk in a line down the street, shooing revellers. everyone realizes at once that they are super drunk. otto can not walk. kiwi girl is passed out on the arm of an argentinian guy. bo and somghiat are being overly affectionate. i am the only one in control. i grab ot’s arm and his drum and push him towards a ‘jok’ stall on the next block. we eat rice porridge with pork, drooling and swaying conspicuously. finally i tell ot to go home. he looks shattered, but i leave him anyway. i wander towards my home and run into the australian guy i am embarrassingly obsessed by (i have been dreaming about him every night since i met him). we chat over pumpkin seeds and beer. he staggers off and finally i am home. i fall asleep to a horror movie on my tv. happy halloween.

suay mai?


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